The South Downs Way starts at the old City Mill in Winchester and runs 160 kilometres east to Eastbourne. Stage 1 officially finishes at Exton, a small village in the Meon Valley about 19 kilometres in. If you are planning the whole route, start with our South Downs Way stage-by-stage guide.
We extended Stage 1, over Old Winchester Hill and on to the South Downs Eco Lodge near East Meon, which made it a 35-kilometre day. Just shy of it, if we are being accurate.
Luke and I are walking the whole trail in sections rather than back to back, and this was the leg that had been nagging at us because it is the start. It is also the stage where the practical information online is thinnest, and there are no accommodation options in Exton where the stage officially ends.
Winchester to East Meon at a Glance
| Distance | Just under 35 km (Winchester to South Downs Eco Lodge) |
|---|---|
| Official Stage 1 | Winchester to Exton, about 19 km |
| Start | Winchester City Mill, by the river |
| Finish | Exton or extend on to the South Downs Eco Lodge on the trail near East Meon |
| Time | A full day. We left Winchester just after 8am. |
| Terrain | Rolling chalk downland. Stony and uneven underfoot for most of it. |
| Food stops | Holden Farm (Cheriton). Very little else that is reliably open. |
| Getting there | Winchester has a mainline station, about an hour from London Waterloo |
Where to Stay in Winchester the Night Before
Stage 1 is long enough that you do not want to be arriving on a morning train and starting at 10am. We stayed in Winchester the night before so we could set off early.
We booked Saskia’s Rooms, a guesthouse with a nicely decorated double room and an en suite. We paid £135 for the night, which did not include breakfast. Winchester is a popular city and rooms are not cheap. Saskia, the host, was lovely and communicative, though we did not actually see her or any other guests. Our room was in the attic, so if you are tall you may want to ask for a different one as the ceilings were low.
Our friends who hiked with us stayed at Settle in Winchester, which was one of the best value central Winchester options we found.
Hotels in Winchester
Winchester has plenty of hotels and guesthouses within a ten-minute walk of the City Mill. These are the ones we would look at first for a night before the trail. Book ahead, especially for weekends.
Saskia’s Rooms
A welcoming B&B with cosy rooms and a homely feel, perfectly placed for exploring Winchester’s historic centre on foot. The personal and comfortable pick.
Check ratesSettle in Winchester
A stylish self-catering apartment offering a home-away-from-home base in the heart of Winchester. Ideal if you want your own space and the freedom to settle into the city.
Check ratesMallard Cottage Winchester
A charming cottage-style stay offering a peaceful retreat within easy reach of Winchester’s sights, shops and restaurants. The cosy countryside-feel pick.
Check ratesDinner and Breakfast in Winchester
We had dinner at Bottega del Mastro, an Italian place that makes its own fresh pasta. I had the arrabbiata and a classic tiramisu. Luke had a truffle pasta. Good mix of meat and vegetarian options, though not many vegetables on the menu. Handy if you want to carb-load, less handy if you want greens.
Breakfast is the thing to plan. Very little in Winchester opens before 8am. We tried Kavi Coffee because it was the only place listed as opening at 7am, but it turned out to be coffee only. We swapped to GAIL’s, which does serve food from 6:30am. We had almond butter sourdough toast, croissants and coffee, and stocked up on pastries for the walk.
If you have time the evening before, walk around Winchester Cathedral. Jane Austen is buried inside and there is a statue of her nearby, and one of her cottages is in the surrounding area.
Walkers’ Route vs Cyclists’ Route
There are two variants of the South Downs Way: the walkers’ route and the bridleway route used by cyclists and horse riders. Sometimes they overlap, sometimes they separate.
The walkers’ route takes you across the rolling hills and the uneven chalk. The bridleway does the same in places, but where the ground gets too rough it sends you along a paved lane instead.
On this stage it was easy to tell them apart, and the signposting is good. Just check which acorn symbol you are following when the two split.
The Walk: Winchester to Exton
Leaving Winchester
The trail starts at the Winchester City Mill and follows the river out of Winchester. This first stretch along the river is pretty, with historic houses and churches on the other bank. You then cross the main roads on the edge of the city and climb up onto the downs proper.
From here the path is pebbly and rocky underfoot and stays that way for most of the day. Wear proper walking shoes. Trainers will do it, but your feet will tell you about it by Exton.
Cheesefoot Head and the First Coffee Stop
The first landmark is Cheesefoot Head, a natural amphitheatre with big views back over Winchester. After that you are into open downland.
The first natural stopping place is Baker & White Coffee Company, which sits right on the South Downs Way so you cannot miss it. It is meant to be open on Saturdays and Sundays. We were there on a Saturday and it was shut. The spot is lovely, with benches looking out over rolling green fields, and we sat and ate our takeaway pastries there. Your mileage may vary.
Holden Farm
Holden Farm near Cheriton was excellent. It is a campsite and working farm with a café that does proper coffee, hot chocolate and a wide variety of baked treats. They also do toasties, pasties and sausage rolls to take away. There is plenty of picnic bench seating outside, and the toilet block is clean.
If you have not already got lunch, buy it here. After Holden Farm there are pretty much no obvious stopping places until the Meon Valley. We had coffee and a sit down and picked up food for later.
The Milbury at Beauworth Pub
Not far after Holden Farm you pass The Milbury at Beauworth, a pub on the lane at Beauworth with loads of outdoor seating. It looks like a nice place for lunch and there were cyclists gathered outside when we passed. The catch is timing. We were there around 11:30am and it was not yet open. If you are walking a shorter day and arrive after midday, it could be your lunch stop. For us it was too early.
The Shoe Inn at Exton
The trail skirts the edge of Exton rather than going through it. It is a pretty little village with a pub, The Shoe Inn, and if you are walking the official stage this is where you finish. If you are carrying on like we were, it is a good place to go slightly off the trail for lunch.
Exton to East Meon: Old Winchester Hill and the Eco Lodge
We carried on from Exton to East Meon because, although the trail ends in Exton, there are no overnight accommodation options and we planned to continue our walk the next day.
Old Winchester Hill
After Exton comes Old Winchester Hill. It is a nice climb, and a beautiful one. There is an Iron Age hill fort on top and views across the Meon Valley and lots of people drive out here for a walk without hiking along the South Downs Way.
Meon Springs and Ice Cream
Coming down off Old Winchester Hill you pass Meon Springs, a fly fishing lake with a café called Bolly’s Bistro. The reviews online are not great, and we went in with low expectations. We only had fizzy drinks and ice cream, but the deck overlooking the water is a really picturesque place to sit, and the ice cream comes from a local dairy a couple of miles away. Keep your expectations in check and it is a good stop.
The Last Stretch to the Eco Lodge
The final bit to the South Downs Eco Lodge involves a short stint on the road. It was not busy and it was actually quite scenic, but it is tarmac at the end of a 35-kilometre day, so be warned. We were very glad to see the lodge!
Where We Stayed: South Downs Eco Lodge
The South Downs Eco Lodge is part of The Sustainability Centre near East Meon, and it sits right on the South Downs Way. It has a YHA feel to it. It is a hikers’ spot rather than a hotel, even though it lists itself as one, and people camp on the site too. The people running it have clearly put a lot of heart into it.
We had our own double room with an en suite toilet and bathroom. Comfortable beds, hot shower, Wi-Fi, a nicely decorated and very clean room, and breakfast included from 7:30am. It felt warm and cost, and at the end of an extended stage one of the South Downs Way, it is exactly what you want. We ordered an Indian takeaway delivery and enjoyed our night in with our feet up.
If you do want a pub with rooms instead, Ye Olde George Inn in East Meon is the alternative, but it means leaving the trail.
Tips for Walking Stage 1 of the South Downs Way
- Stay in Winchester the night before. Starting at 7am is what made 35 kilometres comfortable (or at least doable).
- Buy lunch at Holden Farm. Do not count on anything else being open.
- Carry more water than you think. There are long stretches with no taps and no shops.
- Wear walking shoes with grip. The chalk is stony, uneven and slippery when wet.
- Split it if you prefer. Finish at Exton for a 19-kilometre day, or push on to the Eco Lodge like we did and make Stage 2 shorter.
Plan the Rest of the South Downs Way
This is Stage 1 of eight. Our guide to walking the South Downs Way in stages has distances for every section and a table of where to sleep at each stage end, including the night before in Winchester. If you are more of a coast person, the trail finishes over the Seven Sisters cliffs, which are about 40 minutes from us in Brighton, and our Seven Sisters from London guide covers getting there.